I fell in love with Seoul

I recently had the opportunity to spend a few days in South Korea's capital Seoul. I expected a bustling, crowded city like Tokyo -what a surprise awaited me! Seoul is big and international, but nonetheless quiet and clean. Seeing Seoul and South Korea today, one cannot believe that some hundred years ago it was called The Hermit Kingdom. Seoul is a combination of old and new: as it was battered by Japanese and Manchu invasions in the 16th and 17th centuries as well as the Korean War later, most of the buildings are modern. But amidst the modern cityscape lies a hidden history of old temples, palaces and parks.

There is plenty to see in Seoul and I can only give a few examples. If you want to know about what to do and where to go, check the Seoul tourist information website on http://www.visitseoul.net with a log of useful suggestions and information.

I suggest you start your day with a visit to the Olympic Park in east Seoul. Take subway line 8 and hop off at Mongschontoseong. A few meters from the subway exit is the main entrance with the famous World Peace Gate. The Olympic Park is a nice area for recreation and many locals take their kids their or go inline-skating.

The Royal Palaces of Seoul are a variety of buildings that offer you a glimpse of the feudal past and there is a number of those palaces in Seoul. I went to see the Palace of Illustrious Virtue (Changdeokgung) which was originally constructed between 1405 and 1412. This palace can only be visited with a tour, a ticket including the tour guide will cost you 2,300 Won (18 RMB). Tours with English-speaking guides run from Tuesday to Sunday at 11.30 am, 1 pm, and 3.30 pm (tour lasts about 80 minutes). Take subway line 3 to Anguk station, use exit 3, the palace is about 10 minutes from the subway station.

The Blue House (Cheongwadae) is the South Korean equivalent to America's White House or England's 10 Downing Street, it is the presidential residence. This building has been completed in 1991 and is famous for the blue tiles (hence the name) - the colour blue is the colour of kings and very special. The Blue House can only be visited with a tour (tours available April, May, September and October on Friday and Saturday from 9 am to 5 pm). To reach the Blue House, take subway line 3 to Gyeongbokgung station, use exit 5 and walk to the palace main gate (Gwanghwamun). Please bring your passport, you need to show it when buying a ticket.

If you want to breath Soul's air of the past, then the visit Insadong, a place packed with narrow alleyways full of galleries, teashops and small restaurants. In the craft shops there you can buy fans, paper boxes, traditional masks, lacquerware and pottery. This place is great and car-free, but tends to be really crowded on weekends. To reach Insadong take subway line 5 or line 1 and hop off at Jongno-3 ga.

Nature is waiting for you at Bukhansan National Park, an enormous park with granite peaks, woods and great views. It tends to be very crowded on national holidays and weekends, but still is worth the cheap 1,300 Won (10 RMB) fee. Take subway line 5 to Gwanghwamun and look for the Sejong Cultural Centre. Take bus 156 and tell the driver "Bukhansan". There are a lot of

hiking trails for you to enjoy, please bring adequate clothing and shoes.

Useful tips

Airport

When arriving at the airport, look for the comfortable buses that go to probably every hotel in Seoul. The luxurious coaches are cheap and reliable, a one-way ticket will cost you 8,000 Won (60 RMB).

Getting around Seoul

The subway system is great- it is cheap, quick and reliable. The ticket price depends on where you want to go and is something between 700 and 1400 Won (5 and 10 RMB). Taxis are good, when you are more then two people, otherwise they are pretty expensive.

Shopping

Seoul is a shopper's paradise: lacquerware, pottery, souvenirs, clothes, you name it! A must-go is the Dongdaemun Market, a huge wholesale and retail area with traditional markets and modern malls (buy everything from clothes to toys). Take subway line 1 or 4 and exit at Dongdaemun or take line 2, 4 or 5 and exit at Dongdaemun Stadium. Or try one of the numerous underground arcades, e.g. Euljiro which runs for about 3 km from City Hall to Dongdaemun Stadium.

Prices

Compared to Tianjin, Seoul is expensive-I would say the prices for food, accommodation and clothes and are European level. But you get everything there: from cosy cafes, Italian restaurants to fashion, books and antiques.