Beidaihe: a personal retelling...
Sun, Sea, Clams and Cockles...
and only two hours from Beijing

I had almost forgotten how `wonderful' travelling in China was - the pushing and shoving just to get a train ticket, the sinking realization that there are only standing room seats left and the subsequent battle to upgrade your ticket to something defining 'normal'. North of the capital and set on the shores of the Bohai sea, Beidaihe began as a small, quaint fishing village. However at the turn of the last century, it was transformed into a holiday destination for Western missionaries and diplomats living in Beijing and Tianjin. When the Communists came to power, it became a holiday recluse for the political hierachy and heavily guarded villas were built in its secluded areas for visiting dignitaries. Today, it remains a hot spot for the political elite where China's senior leaders come to escape the heat (and politicking) of Beijing and plot strategy for the coming year.

Ignoring the distinctly unbeachlike brick houses surrounding the train station I meandered through the bustle of Chinese travelers to the nearest waiting 'miandi' and was relieved to discover that the 'real' Beidaihe was actually twenty minutes from the station.

Beidaihe may not be all talcum powder sand and tropical skies, but it is still an alluring coastal village that has a small-town ambience which is a welcome break from city life. Its charm lies mostly in its lively inhabitants, bustling night stalls and, of course, the seaside views. The 7km beach is part of a 35km stretch that runs along the east coast up to Shanhaiguan, where the Great Wall meets the ocean. It encompasses long stretches of pebbly sand to small cobbled coves where the avid shell collector can while away the hours. There are also enough cozy spots for travelers to escape the "hoi polloi" .

During the summer, Beidaihe is overrun by tourists from Beijing, Tianjin, and other nearby regions. Fortunately, they tend to confine themselves to certain areas. One of these is Tiger Rock, heralded by locals as the central attraction and is home to vendors and speed boats. During summer holidays, its is overrun by schoolchildren. As with many natural 'phenomena' in China, Tiger Rock has become the subject of an elaborate legend. Locals have spent ages analyzing the shape of the stones and have came up with an improbable yarn about a young girl whose paintings came to life and who was kidnapped by an evil merchant. To save herself, she drew a tiger, but failed to complete the picture and therefore the tiger turned to stone. It is common belief that one of these stones looks exactly like this mystical tiger - though of course nobody is entirely sure which one it is.

The newest of Beidaihe's villas have been built for members of Beijing's nouveau riche to enjoy the sea without having to set foot in it. In contrast to the crowds at Tiger Rock, this stretch was surprisingly unpopulated and provided a thoroughly pleasant stroll along the seafront. As I settled on the sand to watch the afternoon sun go down, I wondered why on earth hadn't I come to Beidaihe sooner.

As the sun began to sink rapidly, it was time to find out what the village offered in the way of nightlife. Walking north from Tiger Rock up Bao'er Road, you will discover a village brimming with nocturnal activity. This is where most of Beidaihe's restaurants are, right next to shops selling swimming costumes, inflatable penguins, and other seaside paraphernalia. Bao'er Road also has a night market that sells the most amazing range of kitsch, crafted almost entirely from shells.

Anyone with an aversion to seafood is in for a hard time in Beidaihe. Restaurants are easy to spot, and display an unbelievable selection of seafood at incredibly low prices. The tastiest delicacy was the 'muli' , a type of oyster whose jagged shell hides a whole cluster of small shellfish. Another was the 'dahaiban' , an unbelievably large shelled creature about 20 cm long, similar to a large mussel. There were also the more common shrimps, mussels, and a variety of clams and cockles, ranging from RMB10-15 per jin. The quality, like the menu, was fairly uniform from place to place.

Having indulged far too much in local delicacies I found my way to the hotel, a peaceful hideaway at the far east called the Friendship Hotel. In this reclusive spot you can enjoy the sand without the constant clicking of cameras and vendors trying to sell you dead starfish. It is also where fishing boats come and go throughout the day, delivering their fresh catch to an awaiting crowd of restaurateurs.

The eastern beach is framed by the somewhat unsightly `Emerald Shell' Pavilion. The pavilion
is an inexplicable addition to an otherwise perfect setting but it fortunately doesn't spoil the
ambience of the place. Further east of the harbour at the far side sits the Eagle's Nest Cove,
another sheltered area of beach.

Getting There
The first train to Beidaihe leaves Beijing Train Station at 7:40am and takes two and half hours. A later train leaves at 8:30am and takes almost four hours. Return trains from Beidaihe leave at 7:00pm (fast train) and 9:15pm (slow train). Tickets are RMB55.

Where to Stay
Hotel accommodation in Beidaihe is expensive but you can put up at their many hostels which offer beds for as low as RMB 30. There are several tourist hotels near Middle Beach and further east which offer accommodation at reasonable prices. Most hotels offer twin rooms, so if you are a single traveller you may have to bargain for a reduced price. It is unlikely that you will have to book in advance, although during summer weekends, this would be advisable.

The best deal in town is the Guesthouse for Diplomatic Missions near the centre of town, a small complex of European-style villas. Triple rooms cost RMB300 and standard rooms start at RMB450. Junior suites cost RMB780, and if you are feeling particularly extravagant, you can rent a whole villa for RMB1180.

The Zhonghaitan Hotel, situated 10 minutes from Tiger Rock, gives you a feeling of exclusivity due to the wall surrounding it. The rooms here are more pricey, with standard twins starting at RMB450. Single rooms start at RMB230, although this can probably be bargained down too. The Friendship Hotel is a good choice and is minutes away from the Eastern beach. Cabs from here to the center of town cost around RMB7. They can arrange cars to take you to nearby tourist spots, such as Shanhaiguan. Standard rooms here start from RMB200 peak season.

Beidaihe Friendship Hotel (beidaihe youyi binguan)
No 1 Yingjiaolu, Beidaihe
Tel: 0335 4048558

Beidaihe Guesthouse for Diplomatic Missions
(waijiao renyuan beidaihe binguan)
No 1 Baosanlu, Beidaihe
Tel: 0335 4041287
Representative office in Beijing:
East Gate, Building No 12, Dongzhimenwai Street, Chaoyang District, Beijing
Tel: 010 65324336

Zhonghaitan Hotel (zhonghaitan binguan)
No 26 Xijinglu, Beidaihe
Tel: 0335 4098409